Cinque Terra

I stayed in Manarola, the second of the five towns. It's tiny and perched above the water. I was really expecting the Cinque Terra to be like the Amalfi Coast, but it's very different--much smaller, less touristy, much more remote in feeling (though actually a bit easier to get to). It's a must-see if you like hiking and pesto, but otherwise has very little to offer. Physically, the area looks a lot like Muir Woods once you leave the redwoods and get on the trail towards Stinson Beach.

I arrived around 6 pm, and met a lovely Australian girl on the way to the hostel. Michele is three weeks into a 6 month trip that culminates in Russia. The following morning we set off on the 5-city hike, adding on an inland detour between towns 2 and 3 because of landslides on the main trail. It's really nice to find someone at a similar fitness level and with the same pace--she was an excellent hiking partner. We wandered up hills, down hills, and through vineyards, with several gelato and snack breaks. The weather was perfect--sunny but with a bit of a breeze. We completed the entire round trip in just under 10 hours, including breaks. According to my guidebook, it was roughly 22 miles. Needless to say, I'm really sore and taking it easy today.

The food in Manarolo, while limited, was excellent. There are probably 6 restaurants in the entire town. Pesto is a local specialty, and it's just perfect--not to oily, lots of garlic, lots of cheese. I also drank a fair amount of the local white wine, which is quite sweet, almost a dessert wine.